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JAMAICAN JOURNEYS

Snail Paradise (II)

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The Maroons

As the aboriginal indians were killed out centuries ago, we can consider that the Maroons, these fugitive slaves that founded their own country within Jamaica, are the persons that know the land the best.

Back home from the John Crow Mts.

There are a few communities that live now in peace due to their victory upon the English that, as they say never knew how to move in the forest, later they signed their famous treaties. And still today in the villages the stories about Nanny Town and their dislike for Englishmen are still alive, mainly within the elders, but mostly in a joking way.


We are in need of gratitude for their great help and authorization by their Colonel Sterling for visiting their Maroon Treaty Lands. Many unforgetable days/nights were spent in their company as in their stories' too, and without their help I would have surely, as they suggested, found my backbone broken... special thanks to Arthur, a Cooney (Geocaprynus browni = endemic mammal rat like) hunter 76 years old who always takes his lovely dog Finy to hunt wether coonies, or snails for this "browny" (foreigner), he is specially excited when he finds wild banana for his good looking pigs, he carries them on his back (20Kg) without further problems the way down the John Crows meanwhile I can barely stand on my feets looking forward arriving to the village still alive by terrible not existant muddy-bamboo leaf covered trails.

The dark and wet rainforests.

It is nice to know that Maroon culture is still alive, and that internationaly they are also in contact with other groups of Surinam etc..., stories about the dislike of Maroons to foreign people and so on are just stories, I found them acommunity with deep roots in the country they have been fighting for in the last centuries.

Many sites were located with their help and knowledge. "Marco Man" as they called me is in debt with you!.

Rastafari art in the Cockpit.

 

 

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Landsnailing in Jamaica

Social life at the Cockpit Country.

Out of the way places in countryside Jamaica are beautiful, the problem arises when one tries to get to this sites, the roads can be terrible, also the ones connecting tourist resorts, so a good 4X4 is a must, a good pair of spare tyres and a lot of patience, as anyway there is a different sense of time there; many roads doesn't appear on maps and new ones are being built all the time, not meaning roads covered with a layer of asphalt.

No doubt the rainy season is the best for finding the species alive, and lots of insect repelent are needed as the mosquito clouds are going to be your best friends during your stay. Be careful not to find a colony of a interesting species in the middle of a bush of "courage" (plant) you will notice it sooner or later, but it is everywhere, specially at the snail spots. I just touch it as there is not otherway of snailing, the same problem with the mosquitos, no repelent has worked against the Jamaican species so get bitten, or just move, but you can't move all the time you are snailing!, so....get bitten...

Back from the jungle.

Karstic areas are dangerous for people that doesn't have field experience, moving in mountain areas or forests, many of the stones you see are not stable, just stepping on one that is going to move could be a risk, as it is going to roll down, may be hiting your friend or car. There are also many chances to get lost, I knew of a aboriginal Kingston Jamaican that took the wrong trail and was lost for a day until he was found, the valleys look all similar and what you think is near could be really far.

Other animals that are one's best friends during a stay include the small scorpions, the lovely blue ticks, the colonial wasps, aggressive in their defense of their hives, the rats that try to eat your samples and the Jamaican Boa, a beautiful reptile in danger that had the chance to see twice there; no one of this animals are going to bite or hurt you if you use your common sense. Of course ticks lack of common sense and will follow you all around unless you use kerosene, you might find some still alive even when you are back home, specially attached to your fieldwork trousers, check them twice after washing them, they need soaking for hours in very hot water to kill them finally out.

 

 

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