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Sao Tome & Principe Islands

Jewels in the Gulf of Guinea (I)

 

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A view of the islands

The cocoa islands as known in the past are located just north of the Ecuatorian line, north is found Bioko a former Spanish colony (Fernando Poo), now Equatorial Guinea, and south the tiny island of Annobon, belonging to this same country. These are heavily mountainous islands of volcanic origin, covered still in pristine forests.

A variety of orchids bloom in the montane forests.

The Democratic Republic of Sao Tome and Principe is the official name of the country these two small islands share today, their background as of all these new countries is colonial, Spanish and later Portuguese settled down here attracted to the immense natural resources of the area. Unhabited, (unlike Bioko that was home to ethnic groups as the Bubas etc...) slaves were taken from the mainland to work. Cocoa and copra were the main products of the different plantations founded there, and even today, many villages keep the former names given to these Roças, to say large orchards, that were the islands.

A treasure of the colonial times: Great Manors.

Great colonial manors are to be found all around, many eaten by the jungle and forgot, but a hope for the expected turistic future. Today the prices of cocoa and copra have dropped and the only profitable item is coffee as an export good, fishing is practiced in a low scale mainly for personal use although rich is their sea in quantity and species, major factories are unexistant, in fact most of the goodies are brought from Portugal.

As happened in all these former colonies the zoological/botanical diversity was researched during the 18th and 19th century the most, rich owners of plantations were amused to receive and help different famous scientists of their times; Exell for example as botanist, and F.Newton, Fea, Rang, Dohrn and Greeff among others were the first ones to classify and show the world the malacological wonders of this area.

Anyone may wonder how was it possible in their times to make such a magnificient accounts of their travels and findings, specially F.Newton was specially metticulous and his collections had the best locality/ecological datas of the time. Others as Fea were not so clear and many of the species found are still lost.

No doubt there is a great debt of admiration and gratitude towards all these fearless travellers that sailing around, discovered and described what was to be found in the further hidden corners of their, by then, inmense world. They illuminated the minds and dreams of generations of scholars and nature lovers. They gave a value for things that in those times were taken as granted; it is possible that thanks to them all this marvels are still with us, or sadly some times their accounts are the only way to know about extinct plants and animals or seeing, through their eyes, the pristine state of nature they encountered all over.

 

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A malacological portrait

Unlike all these oceanic islands (as Madeira or the Canaries) the number of endemic landsnail species found in this area is low..... most of the genuses are shared with the other islands and the mainland. The most important thing in a malacological point of view is the existance of an own family: Thyrophorellidae (more research is done in this field and soon we will be able to know if this family is going to stay), with just one known species: Thyrophorella thomensis (Greeff).

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Families as Achatinidae are well represented as in all this African ecuatorial area. Archachatina bicarinata is the larger endemic (Being introduced Archachatina marginata), scientist are not sure of the original island where this species evolved as due to human interactions it is now found in both , I anyway I try to think it is Sao Tome, as the other island curiosity of the other island, Principe, the endemic genus Columna lives in the same kind of habitat being I think difficult sharing the same resources. It is interesting to know that all these species are normally sinistral being this an extraordinary event not so often seen in this family. As the former species where ground dwellers, there are also a few species adapted to arboreal conditions. Lignus alabaster and Atopocochlis exaratus; both have when immature emerald green coloured organs, allowing to see this colour through their translucent shell. Also Streptaxids, many Helicarionidae as Thomeonanina hepatizon and Thomeonanina welwitschi, a diversity of uncommonly shaped and sized Subulinidae as Bocageia massoni, covered with a periostracums showing rows of hairs, Bocageia clava, and Bocageia monticola ,besides a couple of prosobranchs of the family Maizanidae.

The size of the snails here also is remarcably larger compared to the minute Bioko/ Annobon species (overall, not just Achatinidae), and there are many curious adaptations as thick hairy periostracum covers that make the animals almost not visible in their enviroment to predators (included passionate collectors)..

The main problem for locating colonies of the endemic species is finding the original forest covers, where the human action has not been perceived, as many plantations are now closed there are often deep forests all around but until the 60's all these areas were heavily farmed, someone visits such places with good expectations to find species and you are most likely to found just A.marginata as everywhere.

A forest on the islands.

The actual situation of these islands malacofauna is good although as the use of the land is changing, species that found shelter in plantations are being driven away and nothing is known about their former distribution , for example Archachatina bicarinata was in the past found all around both islands now colonies are just restricted to the southern and higher mountain areas, more humid and better for them as new crops are being tried for their dislike, the introduced Archachatina marginata has been taking all these drier sites and now is widespread. The higher mountains are supposed to be the last home to many unknown species, much more work is needed to understand the different chains that form these islands.

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